Textured Tote Bag – Free Crochet Pattern

Textured Crochet Bag Pattern

Why buy a brand-name large tote bag for hundreds of dollars when you can easily make one?!

Grab some size 4 (medium) yarn and in just a short time, you can have a beautiful, modern large crochet bag that is both practical and fashionable.

I absolutely love crocheting large bags. One of the first bag patterns I designed was this Easy Crochet Tote Bag Pattern (pictured below).

I wanted to design another large crochet bag pattern and after falling in love with the Crunch Stitch, I knew exactly what I wanted this new bag to look like. The Crunch Stitch is made by alternating slip stitches and half double crochet stitches. It’s incredible how two very basic stitches can create such a stunning texture!

And thus this Textured Tote Bag Crochet Pattern was born! The bottom of this bag is the same bottom that is used in my Easy Crochet Tote Bag Pattern. The body, however, is completely different. In this pattern, the body is made with the beautiful and easy Crunch Stitch.

There are many many things I love about this Textured Tote Bag Crochet Pattern. One is the straight seam. Starting with the second round of the bag body, you will turn your work after each round, which creates a completely straight seam without any effort!

The bag body is a simple one-round-repeat with each round having the same instructions and the same number of stitches.

Other than attaching the straps at the end, there is no sewing involved in this pattern. You will start by making the bottom and then go right into the bag body.

The Crunch Stitch creates a lovely texture but it’s also very useful to use in a bag pattern because it doesn’t have a lot of stretch to it. I found the straps in this pattern stretch less than other bag patterns because of the tightness of the two stitches used.

This pattern might actually be my easiest crochet bag yet! But in case you have any trouble following along, there is a step-by-step video tutorial along with the written instructions.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this pattern or keep scrolling down for all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions. 

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Pattern Details (Size, Yarn, Hook & Notes) 

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a tote bag that is approx. 11” high, 16” wide and 4” deep with straps that are 10” away from the bag.

Materials

Yarn: Approx. 1180 yds (660 g) in total of any size 4 (medium) yarn. This pattern is worked with two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern so you can either separate your yarn manually or use multiple skeins. You will need 2 x 590 yds / 330 g. 

I used Soft Classic yarn by Loops & Threads in the color “Arctic.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 354 yds / 324 m and 7 oz / 198 g. I used four skeins in total. 

Crochet Hook: K/10.5 (6.50 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape, a stitch marker and pins. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• st = stitch
• sts = stitches 
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• hdc = half double crochet 
• BLO = back loops only
• RS = right side
• WS = wrong side

Gauge

After Round 2, work should measure approx. 12.5” long x 1.5” wide. Measurements don’t need to be exact.

Pattern Notes

• Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern, treating them as one strand and crocheting normally. 
• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Always work into the first stitch, the stitch attached to the chain. If the instructions for the beginning of the round say “next st,” work into the first stitch (the stitch attached to the chain).
• Always put a stitch marker in the top of the first stitch of every round to help ensure you start and end in the right place and you have the correct number of stitches. 
• If the instructions say “[2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 2,” what this means is to complete the steps in brackets a total of two times (i.e. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st. 2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.). 

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Video Tutorial

Here is a step-by-step video tutorial. Or, you can keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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How to Crochet the Textured Tote Bag – Pattern Instructions

Bag Bottom

Start: With a K/10.5 (6.50 mm) hook and two strands of yarn held together, chain 31. Use two strands of yarn held together for the entire pattern. 

Round 1: In the second ch from hook, sc. (Reminder: always place a stitch marker in the first stitch of every round). Sc in the next 28 chains. In the last ch, 5 sc. Working into the other side of the chain, sc in the next 28 chains. In the last ch, 2 sc. (64 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Round 2: Ch 1. Do not turn. In the first st, 2 sc. Sc in next 29 sts. 2 sc in next 3 sts. Sc in next 29 sts. 2 sc in next 2 sts. (70 sts. Reminder: chains never count as stitches). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. (After Round 2, work should measure approx. 12.5” long x 1.5” wide. Measurements don’t need to be exact).

Round 3: Ch 1. Do not turn. 2 sc in next 2 sts. Sc in next 30 sts. 2 sc in next 5 sts. Sc in next 30 sts. 2 sc in next 3 sts. (80 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join.

Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 2. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 5. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next st.] x 3. (90 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. (After Round 4, work should measure approx. 14” long x 3” wide).

Round 5: Ch 1. Do not turn. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 2 sts.] x 2. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 2 sts.] x 5. Sc in next 30 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 2 sts.] x 3. (100 sts). Sl st into top of the first sc to join.

Round 6: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in next 5 sts. In next st, 2 sc. Sc in next 36 sts. [2 sc in next st. Sc in next 5 sts.] x 3. Sc in next 34 sts. In next st, 2 sc. Sc in next 4 sts. Sk the last st. (104 sts). Sl st into the top of the first sc to join. (After Round 6, work should measure approx. 16” long  x 4” wide (4” in the middle and 4.5” on ends)). 

Do not fasten off. The round numbers will now reset to make it easier to count rounds from the bottom up.

As you work on the bag body, you will notice that the right side (the top) of the bottom you just completed will be facing down and will be on the outside bottom of the bag.

Bag Body

Every time you make a slip stitch, always make it VERY loosely as you will work into it on the following round. The only exception is when you slip stitch to join the round. The pattern will remind you to join the round with a regular (not loose) slip stitch.

For Round 1 (only), work into the back loops only (BLO), which are the loops furthest away from you.

Round 1 (RS): Ch 1. Do not turn. In the BLO of the first st, sl st (reminders: always sl st VERY loosely. Always place a stitch marker in the top of the first st made in the round). In the BLO of the next st, hdc. *In the BLO of the next st, sl st. In the BLO of the next st, hdc.* Repeat from * to * around. (104 sts). Sl st (regularly, not loosely) into both loops of the first sl st made in the round to join. (Work in both loops from now on). 

For the rest of the pattern:

• Always make a sl st into the top of a hdc st from the previous round and always make a hdc st into the top of a sl st from the previous round.
• Always turn after each round. On RS rounds, the front/outside of your work will be facing you. On WS rounds, the back/inside of your work will be facing you. 

Round 2 (WS): Ch 1 and turn. Do not work into the st attached to the ch (that is the sl st that joined the previous round). The first st is the top of the last hdc completed in the previous round. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. *In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.* Repeat from * to * around. (104 sts). Sl st (regularly, not loosely) into the first sl st made in the round to join. 

Round 3 and on: Repeat Round 2 and until the height of your bag body measures approx. 11” from the bottom or until you reach your desired height. You can end after any round. I completed 31 rounds in total and ended on a RS round. 

After reaching your desired height, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

Bag Straps

Start: With two strands of yarn, leave a 30” tail and ch 7. 

Row 1: In the second ch from hook, sl st (reminder: always sl st VERY loosely). In the next ch, hdc. *In the next ch, sl st. In the next ch, hdc.* Repeat from * to * across. (6 sts). 

Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sl st. In the next st, hdc. *In the next st, sl st. In the next st, hdc.* Repeat from * to * across. (6 sts). 

Row 3 and on: Repeat Row 2 until your strap measures 38” long (for me, this was 91 rows in total). 

Fasten off, leaving a 30” tail. 

Make 2 straps. 

Strap Placement

The straps go on the inside of the bag, 4” from the sides, with the ends  7” from the top. There should be a height of approx. 10” from the top of the bag to the top of the straps. 

Attaching the Straps

Turn the bag inside out. Pin the straps in place.

Using the 30” tails (one strand at a time) and a yarn needle, attach the strap to the inside of the bag body, only working into the backs of stitches to ensure the yarn does not show through the front. Attach all around. Repeat on the other side for the other strap.

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.

And now you have a new textured bag!

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