Textured Chevron Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Crocheting a chevron blanket is so much fun — the stitch pattern creates such a stunning effect with surprisingly little effort. This design combines simple rows of single crochet with playful bobbles and sections of alternating triple crochet stitches, giving the blanket a lovely, eye-catching texture. It’s relaxing to make, visually striking, and a beautiful project for crocheters of all skill levels.

While it makes a wonderful baby blanket, this pattern certainly isn’t limited to little ones. The finished look is elegant and modern, making it perfect as a lapghan, throw, or decorative accent for any room in your home. The gentle chevron wave paired with the textured stitches gives the blanket a timeless feel that suits any age, style, or color palette.

If you’ve never crocheted a chevron blanket before, it may look intimidating with all the peaks and valleys, but it’s actually very easy to create. You’ll simply skip stitches to form the “valley” and work multiple stitches into a single stitch to form the “peak.” This pattern walks you through each section step by step — including how to make the bobble stitch and triple (treble) crochet — and includes a full video tutorial to guide you through the entire blanket.

This chevron crochet pattern is simple to follow, works beautifully in any color scheme, and creates a soft, textured fabric without large gaps. It’s lightweight, breathable, and suitable for any age or gender. Whether you’re making it as a baby gift or a cozy throw for your home, this blanket is a joy to stitch and looks beautiful when complete.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this pattern or keep scrolling down for all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions. 

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 28” wide and 30” high (ideal for a newborn or carseat/stroller baby blanket). Instructions for adjusting the size are included in the pattern.

Gauge

Creating 34 starting chains and following the pattern from the start to Row 11 creates a swatch that is 7“ wide and 3.75” high (height measured from “peak” to “peak”). 

Materials

Yarn: Approx. 1,230 yds / 1,122 m of Size 4 (medium/worsted weight) yarn. You can also use Size 3 (DK/light) yarn (just note that the size of your blanket will be smaller.) 

I used Patons Canadiana which is medium (4) and 100% acrylic in the colors: Cherished Green, Pale Teal & Cherished Pink. A skein is 3.5 oz / 100 g and 205 yd / 187 m. I used a total of 6 skeins. 

Crochet Hook Size:  If using Size 4 yarn, I recommend either a H/8 (5.00 mm) if your yarn is on the lighter side or an I/9 (5.50 mm) hook if your yarn is thicker. If using Size 3 yarn, I recommend a G/6 (4.00 mm) hook. Note that hook size is not important so can choose whatever works best with your yarn. You may want to go up one hook size for the starting chains or to obtain gauge. 

Other Materials: scissors, yarn needle, measuring tape (optional)

Terminology

The pattern is written in English for right-handed crochet using US terminology. If you are more familiar with UK terminology, check out my US to UK Conversion Chart.

Abbreviations

ch = chain
sl st = slip stitch 
st = stitch
sts = stitches 
sk = skip 
YO = yarn over
sc = single crochet
tr = triple (treble) crochet
RS = right side (front of blanket)
WS = wrong side (back of blanket)

How to Adjust the Size

The blanket that I created using size 4 yarn, an H/8 (5.00mm) hook and 146 starting chains is approx 28” wide. You can adjust the width of the blanket by making less or more starting chains in multiples of 16 + 2. For example, if you wanted to make this blanket twice the size (56” wide), you would make 290 (288 + 2) starting chains. 

To adjust the height, make fewer or more rows. 

Wondering what size blanket you should make? Visit my Crochet Blanket Sizes Guide. 

Changing Colors

The pattern does not include directions for where to change colors because there are so many possibilities. You can make the blanket in one solid color or use any number of colors. I’ve included some ideas of where to change colors but the possibilities are truly endless and I would love to see what you come up with!

Change colors after finishing a row by placing the new color on your hook and pulling the new color through the loop of your current color. Fasten off the old color. With your new color, ch 1 and begin the next row. 

Ideas of where to change Colors

1) Change colors after one and a half repeats:

Color A: Start – Row 11. Rows 2 – 6. 
Color B: Rows 7 – 11. Rows 2 – 11.
Color C: Rows 2 – 11. Rows 2 – 6.

2) Change colors after every repeat:

Color A: Start – Row 11.
Color B: Rows 2 – 11. 
Color C: Rows 2 – 11. 

3) Change colors after every section:

Color A: Start to Row 6.
Color B: Rows 7 – 11.
Color C: Rows 2 – 6. 

Special Stitches

Bobble:

A bobble is a dc5tog into the same stitch. 

Here is how to do it: YO, insert your hook into the next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (4 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (5 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (7 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (6 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through all 6 loops on hook. 

The next stitch after a bobble is always a sc. When making your sc in the next stitch, push the bobble stitch to the front (away from you) and crochet tightly as you make the next sc. 

Triple/Treble Crochet Stitch (tr):

YO twice, insert hook into next st. YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through last 2 loops on hook. 

Pattern Notes

• The pattern is worked from the bottom up.
• All Rows have 154 sts and 9 “valleys” and 8 “peaks” (not including the two ends). 
• Ch 1 never counts as a stitch.
• Ch 1 and turn at the end of each row. 
• Always work into the 1st stitch of the row (the stitch attached to the chain). 
• When the instructions say something like: “Repeat *sc, tr* across the next 6 sts,” what this means is: sc in the next st. Tr in the next st. Continue repeating sc in the next st, tr in the next st until a total of 6 sts are made (3 sc and 3 tr).
• There is a front (RS) and a back side (WS) of the blanket. The front is where the bobble and triple crochet stitches are shown. The back is just single crochet stitches. 
• The bobble and triple crochet stitches are always made when the front of the blanket is facing away from you. 
• When working into a bobble or a triple crochet stitch from the previous row, always sc into the top of the bobble or triple crochet stitch. 

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step by step video tutorial here or keep scrolling down for the free written instructions.

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Pattern Instructions

Chevron Blanket

If you crochet tightly, you may want to go up a hook size for the starting chains (only) to ensure you can work more easily into the back ridge loop on Row 1. 

Foundation/Chain Row: Chain 146.

For Row 1 (only), work into the back ridge loops.

Row 1 (RS): In the 2nd ch from hook, 2 sc. 1 sc in each of the next 7 chains. Sk next ch (“valley” created). 1 sc in each of the next 7 chains. [3 sc in next ch (“peak” created). 1 sc in each of the next 7 chains. Sk next ch (“valley” created). 1 sc in each of the next 7 chains.] Repeat from [ to ] until there is 1 ch left. In last ch, 2 sc. (Reminders: each row when complete has 154 sts. Ch 1 and turn after each row).

(Work in both loops from now on)

Row 2 (WS): In 1st st, 2 sc. 1 sc in next 7 sts. Sk next 2 sts. 1 sc in next 7 sts. [3 sc in next st. 1 sc in next 7 sts. Sk next 2 sts. 1 sc in next 7 sts.] Repeat from [ to ] until 1 st left. In last st, 2 sc. 

Row 3 (RS): Repeat Row 2. 

Row 4 (WS): In 1st st, 2 sc. 1 sc in next 3 sts. Bobble. 1 sc in next 3 sts. Sk next 2 sts. 1 sc in next 3 sts. Bobble. 1 sc in next 3 sts. [3 sc in next st. 1 sc in next 3 sts. Bobble. 1 sc in next 3 sts. Sk next 2 sts. 1 sc in next 3 sts. Bobble. 1 sc in next 3 sts.] Repeat from [ to ] until 1 st left. In last st, 2 sc. 

Rows 5 – 7: Repeat Row 2. 

Row 8 (WS): In 1st st, 2 sc. 1 sc in next st. Repeat *tr, sc* across next 6 sts. Sk next 2 sts. 1 sc in next st. Repeat *tr, sc* across next 6 sts. [In next st, (sc, tr, sc) in the same st. 1 sc in next st. Repeat *tr, sc* across next 6 sts. Sk next 2 sts. 1 sc in next st. Repeat *tr, sc* across next 6 sts.] Repeat from [ to ] until there is 1 st left. In last st, 2 sc. 

Row 9 (RS): Repeat Row 2. 

Row 10 (WS): Repeat Row 8. 

Row 11 (RS): Repeat Row 2. 

Repeat Rows 2 – 11 until your desired height (for reference, a blanket that is 30” high repeats Rows 2 – 11 a total of 8 times). You can end after any row. When finished, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

Blocking

To help your blanket lie flat and not curve, I recommend blocking your finished blanket. 

And that’s it! Now you have a new Textured Chevron Blanket.

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