Serene Baby Blanket – Free Crochet Pattern

Serene Crochet Baby Blanket

Find serenity in every stitch with this Serene Baby Blanket Crochet Pattern! Designed with a beautiful texture and a soft, ribbed border, this blanket brings a peaceful elegance to any nursery.

This cozy yet lightweight blanket is perfect for little ones. Whether you’re making it as a heartfelt gift or for your own bundle of joy, this soothing pattern is a joy to create and cherish.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the step-by-step video tutorial and the free written instructions.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy to intermediate

Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 33” x 33.” Instructions for adjusting the size are included in the pattern.

Materials

Yarn: Any size 3 (light) yarn. You will need approx. 1,315 yds in total (1,050 yds for the blanket body and 265 yds for the border).

I used Mary Maxim Sunrise Yarn in the color “Succulent.” This yarn is size 3 (light) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 240 yds / 220 m and 3.5 oz / 100 g. I used six skeins.

Crochet Hook Size: I/9 (5.50 mm).

Other Materials: Yarn needle, scissors and a measuring tape. 

Terminology

This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart. 

Abbreviations

• ch/chs = chain/chains
• st/sts = stitch/stitches
• sp/sps = space/spaces
• sk = skip
• sl st = slip stitch 
• sc = single crochet
• dc = double crochet 
• ch-2 sp = chain two space
• FPdc = front post double crochet
• BPdc = back post double crochet

Gauge

Exact sizing is not important. For reference, 4” x 4” = 17 sts and 9 rows following the blanket body pattern. 

Pattern Notes

• Chains never count as stitches. 
• Your work may curl at the start and it may take several rows before the width is what it will be for the rest of the pattern. If after several rows, you are not happy with the width, you can start again with a different number of starting chains (refer to the How to Adjust the Size section).
• The blanket is completely reversible and looks the same on the front and the back. 

How to Adjust the Size

The pattern creates a blanket that is approx. 33” x 33” with the border (30” x 30” without the border). 

The number of starting chains determines the width and the number of rows determines the height. To adjust the width, make more or less starting chains in multiples of 3 + 2 (meaning to take any number that you can divide by 3 and add 2 to that number i.e. 90 + 2 = 92 starting chains required). To adjust the height, make more or less rows. 

How many starting chains are required to make the blanket a specific width? 

• A) Take the width you want the blanket to be (in inches) and multiply that number by 4.4, which is the number of sts per inch (i.e. if you wanted a blanket that is 45” wide: 45 x 4.4 = 198). 
• B) Round up A) to the nearest multiple of 4 (i.e. 200). 
• C) Divide B) by 4 (i.e. 200/4 = 50). 
• D) Multiply C) by 3 (i.e. 50 * 3 = 150). 
• E) Add 2 to D) (i.e. 150 + 2 = 152). This is how many starting chains are required (i.e. to make the blanket 45” wide, you would need 152 starting chains). (This is a guideline and has not been tested but should give you a width that is close to what you want it to be).

Stitch Explanations

For Rounds 3 – 5 of the border, you will be making front and back post stitches. If these stitches are new to you, here’s how to make them:

Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc):

Yarn over, insert your hook from the front to the back at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Then finish your double crochet stitch as you normally would: yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the last two loops on your hook.

Back Post Double Crochet (BPdc): 

Yarn over, insert your hook from the back to the front at the right of the designated stitch and bring your hook out at the left of the same stitch. Then finish your double crochet stitch as you normally would: yarn over and pull through a loop (3 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook (2 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through the last two loops on your hook.

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Video Tutorial

Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keeping scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Just a Reminder!

This pattern is also available as a PDF, which includes everything listed here but as a printer-friendly, ad-free PDF that you can instantly download, save, print, make notes on and keep forever.

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How to Crochet the Serene Baby Blanket

Blanket Body Instructions

Start: Ch 101. 

For Row 1 (only) work into the back ridge loops. 

Row 1: In the second ch from the hook, sc. 

Sc in each ch across. 

(100 sc sts).

Row 2: Ch 3 and turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the chs), dc. 

*Sk the next 2 sts. 

In the next st, (sc, ch 2, 3 dc).*

Repeat from * to * across until there are 3 sts left.

Sk the next 2 sts. 

In the last st, sc. 

Stitch count: 130 sts (reminder: chs never count as sts) and 32 ch-2 sps. 

Note: every time you ch 2, you create a “ch-2 sp” that you will work into on the next row. This ch-2 sp is under the two chs and between the sc and dc sts.

Row 3: Ch 3 and turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch), 2 dc. 

Work in each ch-2 sp across the row (not into tops of sts): 

In each ch-2 sp, (sc, ch 2, 3 dc).

After working in the last ch-2 sp of the row, sc in between the post of the last st and the starting ch-3. 

Stitch count: 131 sts and 32 ch-2 sps.

Row 4 and on: Repeat Row 3 until the height of your blanket body matches the width (for a square blanket) or your desired height. You can end after any row. My blanket body measured 30” high, which was 66 rows.

After reaching your desired height, do not fasten off. Begin the blanket border. 

Blanket Border Instructions

Border Round 1: Ch 1. Do not turn.

SIDE (DOWN): Working into sts at the end of each row, sc evenly down the side.

Need help with where to work into? At the end of each row, there is either a sc or a ch-3 that you will work into (you can work into 1 loop or 2, just not into the sps around the sts). In each sc at the end of a row, I made 1 sc into that sc. In each ch-3, I made 1 sc into the bottom of that ch-3 and 1 sc into the top of that same ch-3. The exact st count and st placement are not important – the goal is to have evenly-placed sc sts all the way down (and up) the side.

BOTTOM: In the first ch across the bottom, make 3 sc (first corner made). 

Sc in each ch across the bottom until there is 1 ch left. 

In the last ch, make 3 sc (second corner made). 

SIDE (UP): Working into sts at the end of each row, sc evenly up the side (same as working down the side). 

TOP – In the first st across the top, make 3 sc (third corner made). 

In the next st, sc. 

*Sk the next st. In the ch-2 sp, sc.

Sk the next st. Sc in the next 2 sts.*

Repeat from * to * across until there is 1 st left. 

In the last st, make 3 sc (fourth corner made).

Note: the top may look misshaped – that will be fixed as the border grows.

Sl st into the top of the first sc made in the round to join.

Border Round 2: Ch 2. Do not turn. 

In the first st (the st attached to the ch-2), dc. 

Dc in each st around except at the corners. 

At each corner (the middle st of the 3 sc sts made in each corner in the previous round), make 9 dc in the same st. (It’s okay for the corners to “balloon” out – that will be fixed as the border grows).

After working all the way around, before joining the round, count your sts (the ch-2 that started the round does not count as a stitch). You need to have an odd number of sts in total at the end of Round 2. 

If you have an odd number of sts, proceed to join. 

If you have an even number of sts, make another dc in the last st, then proceed to join. 

Join: sl st into the top of the first dc made in the round.

Border Round 3: Ch 2. Do not turn. 

FPdc around the first st from the round below (not the ch-2 from below. The ch-2 from below is never worked around). 

*BPdc around the next st from the round below. 

FPdc around the next st from the round below.* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

Nothing special happens at the corners. Your last st is a FPdc around the last dc from the round below. 

Sl st into the top of the first FPdc to join.

Border Round 4: Ch 2. Do not turn. 

FPdc around the first st below (the FPdc from the round below. The ch-2 from below is not worked around). 

*BPdc around the next st below (the next BPdc from the round below). 

FPdc around the next st below (the next FPdc from the round below).* 

Repeat from * to * around. 

Nothing special happens at the corners. Your last st is a FPdc around the last FPdc from the round below. 

Sl st into the top of the first FPdc to join.

Border Round 5: Repeat Round 4. 

After finishing Border Round 5, fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

And now you have a new blanket!

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