
Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder – Free Crochet Pattern
Here’s a fun, quick and easy crochet pattern for a crocodile that holds freeze pops! This free crochet crocodile freezie holder pattern makes a great crochet gift for kids that will keep their hands from getting cold and the freeze pop juice from dripping everywhere!
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Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder
Learn how to crochet a crocodile freeze pop holder, which is a fun, quick, and easy summer crochet pattern for kids. It’s a useful and unique crochet gift idea, a fast crochet toy pattern, or a creative way to use up scrap yarn. This DIY freeze pop cozy is a fantastic crochet gift for kids and a must-try summer crochet project!

One of the best parts about crochet is that you can create really useful items. In the summertime, my kids go nuts for freezies but their little hands get cold so quickly holding them.
Last year, I designed this Flower Freeze Pop Holder and now my girls can’t eat a freeze pop without it!

Since not all kids are crazy about flowers, I wanted to create a new freeze pop holder pattern.
I’m so excited to share this fun, fast and simple pattern for a Crocodile Crochet Freeze Pop Holder!

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of the pattern or keep scrolling down to view all the details, the video tutorial and the written instructions.
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Pattern Details (Size, Yarn, Hook & Notes)
Skill Level
Easy
Size
The pattern creates a freeze pop holder that is approx. 4.5” long and 1.75” wide (not including the tail or mouth).

Materials
Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn. You will need approx. 30 yds of green yarn and 3 yds of white yarn. I used Impeccable by Loops & Threads in the colors “Fern” and “White.” This yarn is size 4 (medium) and 100% acrylic. A skein is 285 yds / 260 m and 4.5 oz / 127.5 g.
Crochet Hook: F/5 (3.75 mm).
Other Materials: 2 stitch markers, a yarn needle, scissors, a measuring tape, 2 googly eyes and a glue gun (or 2 safety/craft eyes).
Terminology
This pattern is written for right-handed crochet using standard US terminology. If you’re more familiar with UK terms, here’s my US to UK Conversion Chart.

Abbrevations
- ch/chs = chain/chains
- st/sts = stitch/stitches
- sk = skip
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet two together
- PM = place stitch marker
Gauge
1” x 1” = 4 sc and 4 rounds (following the instructions for the body).
Pattern Notes
- Chains never count as stitches.
- When the pattern says: “Over the first 2 sts, sc2tog,” what this means is to insert your hook into the first st and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook). Insert your hook into the next (the second) st and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook.
- When the pattern says: “Over the last 2 sts, sc2tog,” what this means is to insert your hook into the second last st and pull up a loop (2 loops on your hook). Insert your hook into the last st and pull up a loop (3 loops on your hook). Yarn over and pull the yarn through all 3 loops on your hook.
- When working into any chain stitches throughout the pattern, work into the top loop.

Special Stitches
Bobble = Make 5 double crochet stitches together in the same stitch.
Here’s how to make a Bobble:
YO, insert your hook into the next stitch, YO and pull up a loop (3 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (2 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (4 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (3 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (5 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (4 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (5 loops on hook). YO, insert your hook into the same stitch, YO and pull up a loop (7 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through 2 loops on hook (6 loops on hook). YO, pull yarn through all 6 loops on hook.


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Video Tutorial
Watch the step-by-step video tutorial below or keep scrolling down for the written instructions.

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Pattern Instructions
Tail
Start: With green yarn, ch 2.
Row 1: In the second ch from the hook, sc. (1 sc st).
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, 2 sc. (2 sc sts. Reminder: chs never count as sts).
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. In the next st, sc. (2 sc sts).
Row 4: Repeat Row 3.
Row 5: Repeat Row 3.
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, 2 sc. In the next st, sc. (3 sc sts).
Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 2 sts. (3 sc sts).
Row 8: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, 2 sc. Sc in the next 2 sts. (4 sc sts).
Row 9: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 3 sts. (4 sc sts). Do not turn. Ch 9. Being careful not to twist the ch sts, sl st into the first sc made in the row. Do not fasten off.

Body
Round 1: Ch 1. Do not turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 3 sts. Working into each ch from the ch-9 made in Row 9, sc in the next 9 chs. (13 sc sts). Sl st into the first sc to join.
Round 2: Ch 1. Do not turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 7 sts. *PM in the top of the last sc made. Make Foot: Ch 2. In the second ch from the hook, sl st. Ch 3. In the third ch from the hook, sl st. Sl st into the same st as the last sc st made before starting the foot.* Sc in the next 3 sts. Repeat instructions from * to *. Sc in the last 2 sts. (13 sc sts). Sl st into the first sc to join.
Round 3: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the first st and in each st around (you’ll only be working in sc sts from the previous round). When you arrive at the st with the stitch marker, remove the marker and work into that st. When you arrive at a foot, push the foot down towards you so it’s out of the way and work into the next st. (13 sc sts). Sl st into the first sc to join.
Round 4: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sc in the first st and in each st around. (13 sc sts). Sl st into the first sc to join.
Round 5: Ch 1. Do not turn. Sk the first st. Sc in the next 12 sts. The next st is the joining sl st from the previous round. Sc into the joining sl st. (13 sc sts). Sl st into the first sc to join.
Rounds 6 – 13: Repeat Rounds 4 and 5 consecutively.
Note: the purpose of alternating between Rounds 4 & 5 is to create a straight seam, which affects the feet placement in Round 14. Depending on how your sts have lined up, you may need to adjust where you make the feet in Round 14. When making the feet, ensure there are 3 sc sts between the two feet and there are 13 sc sts made in total.

Round 14: Ch 1. Do not turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 5 sts. *PM in the top of the last sc made. Make Foot: Ch 2. In the second ch from the hook, sl st. Ch 3. In the third ch from the hook, sl st. Sl st into the same st as the last sc st made before starting the foot.* Sc in the next 3 sts. Repeat instructions from * to *. Sc in the last 4 sts. (13 sc sts). Sl st into the first sc to join.
Round 15: Repeat Round 3.
In Round 16, you will create two “eye sockets” by making Bobble sts. The eye sockets should be on the opposite side of the legs. The next round starts by shifting where you begin so the eye sockets can be in the correct place. You can adjust the placement of the eye sockets if needed – just ensure there are 2 sc sts between the two Bobbles and 11 sc sts made in total (plus the 2 Bobbles).
Round 16: Ch 1 and turn. Sk the first st (this is the joining sl st from the previous round and it does not get worked into). In the next st, sl st. Ch 1. In the next st, sc. Sc in the next 7 sts. In the next st, Bobble. Sc in the next 2 sts. In the last st, Bobble. In the sl st made at the start of this round, sc. (11 sc sts + 2 Bobble sts = 13 sts). Sl st into the first sc to join. Do not fasten off.

Top of Mouth
Row 1: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st (the joining sl st from the previous round), sc. Sc in the next 6 sts. Leave the rest of the sts unworked. (7 sc sts).
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 6 sts. (7 sc sts).
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Over the first 2 sts, sc2tog. Sc in the next 3 sts. Over the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (2 sc2tog sts + 3 sc sts = 5 sts).
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 4 sts. (5 sc sts).
Row 5: Repeat Row 4.
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. Over the first 2 sts, sc2tog. Sc in the next st. Over the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (2 sc2tog sts + 1 sc st = 3 sts).
Row 7: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 2 sts. (3 sc sts).
Row 8: Repeat Row 7.
Fasten off.
Bottom of Mouth
With the belly facing you, insert your hook into the first empty st on the right-hand side below the top of the mouth. Place green yarn on your hook and pull it through the st.

Row 1: Ch 1. Sc in the same st (where you attached the green yarn). Sc in the next 5 sts. (6 sc sts).
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in next 5 sts. (6 sc sts).
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Over the first 2 sts, sc2tog. Sc in the next 2 sts. Over the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (2 sc2tog sts + 2 sc sts = 4 sts).
Row 4: Ch 1 and turn. In the first st, sc. Sc in the next 3 sts. (4 sc sts).
Row 5: Repeat Row 4.
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. Over the first 2 sts, sc2tog. Over the last 2 sts, sc2tog. (2 sc2tog sts).
Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Teeth
Flip the crocodile over so the belly is facing up and the mouth is facing you. Insert your hook into a st close to the bottom corner on the right-hand side – work into a top loop only (a loop on the inside of the mouth so the st doesn’t come through the outside). Place white yarn on your hook and pull it through the st.

When making teeth (top and bottom), always work into the top loops only (the loops on the inside of the mouth) so the yarn doesn’t come through the outside. You will be working into sts at the end of rows. Exact st placement and exact number of sts are not important.
Top Teeth: Ch 1. Sl st into the next st. *Ch 2. In the second ch from the hook, sl st. Sl st in the next st.* Repeat from * to * until you get to the opposite mouth corner. Do not fasten off.
Bottom Teeth: Continuing in the same direction but now on the bottom of the mouth:
Ch 1. Sl st in the next st. *Ch 2. In the second ch from the hook, sl st. Sl st into the next st.* Repeat from * to * around. Sl st into the first ch made in the round to join. Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Fasten off and weave in all loose ends.
Eyes
With a glue gun, glue googly eyes (or attach craft/safety eyes) onto the eye sockets (the Bobble sts).

And now you have a new Crocodile Freeze Pop Holder!
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