Beer Hat – Free Crochet Pattern

Crochet Beer Hat

Whenever I give someone a gift, I always think, “I hope they don’t already have this!” With this Crochet Beer Hat, I can confidently say… you won’t have that problem! This one-of-a-kind design is playful, unexpected, and guaranteed to get a laugh — in the best possible way.

If you’re searching for a great crochet gift idea for Father’s Day, a Christmas gift for the men in your life, or something fun for any beer lover, this hat is the perfect choice. It’s lighthearted, clever, and a conversation starter every time it’s worn. Whether for a dad, a friend, a partner, or that person who’s impossible to shop for, this crochet beer hat is sure to bring good cheer(s)!

The pattern is easy to follow, uses simple stitches, and works up faster than you might expect. It’s a fun project for confident beginners and experienced crocheters alike, and the finished hat makes an unforgettable handmade gift. Get ready for smiles, laughs, and lots of “Where did you get that?!” whenever it’s worn.

Use the Table of Contents below to jump to any section of this pattern or keep scrolling down for all the details and the written instructions. 

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Make Coasters to Go with Your New Hat

After you finish this hat, make a set of beer coasters with this free Beer Coasters crochet pattern.

Looking for more gift ideas for men? Check out this collection of 10+ crochet gifts for men.

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Pattern Details

Skill Level

Easy (simple stitches) – See note below about working with Pipsqueak yarn.

Size

The pattern is designed to fit a head that is 24” around (measured from forehead, going around to middle of back of head and back to starting point). The finished hat is 8” tall and 10.5” wide. 

Materials

Hook Sizes: H/8 (5.00mm) or size needed to obtain gauge. If using worsted weight for the “foam,” an F/5 (3.75mm) hook or size needed to obtain gauge. If you crochet tightly you may want to go up a hook size for the “beer glass bottom.” 

Other: yarn needle, scissors, measuring tape and stuffing (optional). 

Yarn For the Beer Hat Body, Beer Glass Bottom & Beer Handle: 

Any worsted weight (size 4), 100% acrylic yarn (it’s best if it has some stretch to it). I used Loops & Threads Impeccable Yarn, Solid in the colors 2) “Heather” and 3) “Pale Gray.” This yarn is medium (4) weight and 100% acrylic. A skein is 4.5oz / 127.5g and 285 yd/260 m. You need less than a quarter skein for each color. 

Yarn For the Beer “Foam:”

I used Bernat Pipsqueak in “Whitey White.” This yarn is bulky (5) weight. The size is 3.50 oz. / 100 g. A skein is 101 yd / 92 m. You need less than a quarter skein. Or you can use worsted weight (size 4) yarn for the “foam.”  (See note below for more info on which yarn to use for the “foam”)

A Note About Working with Pipsqueak

The beer “foam” (top of hat) is made with Bernat Pipsqueak yarn. There are pros and cons about working with Pipsqueak.

Pros: 

• It creates a realistic “foam” look. 
• The foam part of the hat when made with Pipsqueak doesn’t lie completely flat and also doesn’t curve the way the crown of a hat made with worsted weight would, which creates a realistic, somewhat wavy look for the top of the beer mug. 
• It’s very forgiving so as long as you have the correct number of stitches for the round, even if they aren’t always in the right place, it will still work out. 

Cons: 

• Pipsqueak can be difficult to work with as you can’t actually see the stitches. You need to feel for the stitches and count without seeing them (tip: use stitch markers to help with counting). 
• It’s an unusual yarn without a lot of alternatives and it’s sometimes hard to find/buy. You are welcome to try any similar alternatives but please check your gauge. 

To ensure you can make this pattern with or without using Pipsqueak, I’ve included a note about how to use worsted weight (size 4) yarn for the “foam” (right before the instructions for that section). The pattern becomes a very easy pattern without using Pipsqueak but you may find it’s missing that “foam” look. 

Gauge

Gauge is listed in each section. There are also measurements listed throughout the pattern. 

Terminology

This pattern is written in English using US terminology for right-handed crochet.

Abbreviations

ch = chain
st = stitch
sts = stitches 
sl st = slip stitch
sc = single crochet
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
BLO = back loops only 

Pattern Notes

• The pattern is worked in the round, do not turn at the end of each round. 
• Chains do not count as stitches.
• Always work in the first stitch, the stitch attached to the chain. 
• When slip stitching into the 1st st to join, always slip stitch into the top of the stitch (the top of the sc, hdc or dc). 

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Pattern Instructions

If using worsted weight (size 4) for the “foam”:

If you are using worsted weight yarn (size 4) for the “foam,” use an F/5 (3.75mm) hook (or size needed to obtain gauge listed below) and follow the regular instructions listed below but make half double crochet stitches (hdc) instead of single crochet stitches (sc). The stitch counts and measurements should be exactly the same.

Gauge (using size 4 yarn): 15 hdc and 10 rows made as a flat swatch (not in the round)

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Beer “Foam” Instructions

Gauge (using Pipsqueak or a similar alternative): 13 sc and 14 rows made as a flat swatch (not in the round) 

Start: Make a magic circle/ring. 

Round 1: Make 10 sc in magic circle. Pull tight to close. (10 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. 

Round 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each st around (20 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. Work should measure: 2”.

Round 3: Ch 1. 2 sc in first st. 1 sc in next st. Repeat *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st* around (30 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. Work should measure: 2.75”.

Round 4: Ch 1. 2 sc in first st. 1 sc in next 2 sts. Repeat *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 2 sts* around (40 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. Work should measure: 3.5”.

Round 5: Ch 1. 2 sc in first st. 1 sc in next 3 sts. Repeat *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 3 sts* around (50 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. Work should measure: 5”.

Round 6: Ch 1. 2 sc in first st. 1 sc in next 4 sts. Repeat *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts* around (60 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. Work should measure: 5”.

Round 7: Ch 1. 2 sc in first st. 1 sc in next 9 sts. Repeat *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 9 sts* around (66 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. Work should measure: 5.5”. Fasten off white yarn. 

Note: if using Pipsqueak, your work at this point may not lie completely flat or curve the way the crown of a hat made with worsted weight would but it creates a realistic, somewhat rippled/wavy look for the top of the beer mug.

Beer Hat Body

Gauge: 13 dc and 8 rows – made as a flat swatch (not in the round). 

Attach beer-colored (size 4) yarn with a sl st. 

Round 8: Ch 1. Dc in each st around (66 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. 

Rounds 9 – 16: Repeat Round 8. 

Fasten off beer-colored yarn. Attach glass-colored yarn with a sl st. 

Beer Glass Bottom Instructions

If you crochet tightly, you may want to go up one hook size to ensure this part is not too tight. 

Round 17: Ch 1. Sc in each st around (66 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. 

Rounds 18 – 20: Repeat Round 17. 

After Round 20, the height of your work should measure 8” from top of hat to bottom. 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. 

Beer Handle Instructions

Start: Leave a 24” starting tail and make a magic circle. 

Round 1: Make 8 sc in magic circle (8 sts). Pull tight. Sl st into 1st st to join. 

Round 2: Ch 1 and turn. (Work in the opposite direction – your first stitch will be into the last stitch made from the previous round). Sc into the back loop only (BLO) (the loop furthest away from you) of each st around (8 sts). Sl st into both loops of the 1st st to join. 

(Work into both loops from now on. And from now on, after each round, do no turn). 

Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in each st around (8 sts). Sl st into 1st st to join. 

Round 4 and on: Repeat Round 3 until work measures 5” from bottom (approx 20 rounds). 

Fasten off, leaving a 24” tail. 

Attaching the Beer Handle 

I chose not to fill the handle with stuffing but you can if you’d like. 

With the front of the hat centered and facing you, attach the handle to the side (you can choose right or left side). Attach one end of the beer handle (doesn’t matter which end) in between the 2nd and 3rd rounds of dc sts from the bottom and the other end in between the 2nd and 3rd rounds of dc sts from the top.

Using your yarn needle and the tails, attach the handle by weaving in and out of each st around (8 sts). I recommend going around twice to ensure it’s securely attached. 

Fasten off and weave in all loose ends. Now you have a new beer hat! 

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